If you complete the process by scratch, it begins with dried corn and ends with a masa-stuffed corn husk. Soaking, spreading, simmering and steaming are parts of the labor-intensive process of tamalemaking. Follow these steps by chef Gabriel Pompa of La Perla Cafe in Glendale and treat yourself to several dozen of your favorite tamales:

 Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Turn off the heat and add the corn husks so they are completely submerged. Let the husks soak for one to two hours. Use a plate to weight the husks down if they float to the surface of the pot. The husks should be very pliable.

MASA FOR PURISTS:

 Soak dried corn kernels in the caustic lime sold at Mexican food markets. Use 1 ounce of lime for every 10 pounds of corn. After several hours, and after the kernels are plump, drain the water and wash the corn extremely well. The lime will leave a bitter taste on the corn if not washed thoroughly. Allow the soaked corn to drip-dry, then grind it into small pieces in a meat grinder or food processor.

 See recipe for masa from scratch on Page G4 and use 3 pounds of this corn mixture as an ingredient to create the finished masa dough.

MASA TO SAVE TIME:

 To cut out several steps, buy fresh, dry masa flour at Mexican markets. You also can find it in the Hispanic food aisle of most grocery stores. Follow the package instructions to create masa dough, then follow the remaining steps. For even more convenience, you can buy fresh, tamale-ready masa dough at specialty stores.

TAMALE ASSEMBLY:

 Once masa and filling of choice have been prepared (some filling recipes are on Page G4), drain the corn husks and select the largest ones. Use the masa as glue to combine two of the smaller husks. A husk at least 12 inches wide is needed for a 6-inch-tall tamale.

 Place the husks, smooth side up, on a flat surface. Use a tablespoon tilted at a 45-degree angle to spread the masa almost all the way to the sides of the husk and near the top. Leave most of the lower half of the husk uncovered.

 Spoon a tablespoon or two of the cooled meat or vegetable mixture in a narrow band across the masa. Leave at least a 11/2-inch border on the pointy end of the husk, and a three-fourths-inch border along the other sides.

 Begin by tucking one edge of the husk and rolling. Tuck and roll. Repeat tucking and rolling until there are no husks remaining. Fold the empty bottom half of the husk up against the rest of the roll.

 Tie tamales with a string of corn husk, or use the masa to glue the tamale to prevent it from unraveling.

COOKING TAMALES:

 Place the tamale, flap side down, in the steamer basket of a pasta, vegetable or tamale cooker. Fill the bottom of the steamer; the water level should be below the rack. Then stack tamales on top of one another. If the tamales extend over the top of the pot, cover with a wet corn husk and damp rag.

 Steam the tamales for 1 to 11/4 hours or until the masa seems fairly firm inside the husk. Replenish boiling water if necessary.

 The tamales are done when the husk peels away easily.

1 pound lard
3 pounds finished fresh corn mixture (see instructions in Tamale-making Steps on Page G3)
1 cup chicken or pork stock
21/2 tablespoons salt

Beat the lard in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until very fluffy and fully aerated, about 3 minutes. It may take longer if your mixer is not powerful. (A heavy-duty machine such as a KitchenAid is best.) The best alternative to a weak mixer is not a spoon, but your bare hand. Whip and beat the lard with a rapid folding motion until you feel the lard is fluffy and full of air. It should be as light as butter creamed for the lightest butter cake.

Still mixing on medium speed, begin adding the fresh corn mixture a handful at a time. If mixture seems too stiff, add stock a little at a time, up to 1 cup. Stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. When all the masa has been incorporated, the mixture should be very light and delicate, the texture of buttercream frosting. Beat in salt.

When the dough has reached the light and fluffy stage, beat in 1/2 cup of the cooled red chile (from accompanying chile recipe) and mix thoroughly to color the dough evenly.

To test the readiness of the dough, drop a teaspoon of it into a glass of water. If it doesn't float, continue to beat. If it does float, the mixture is ready to be spread onto corn husks, but can hold if other ingredients, such as the filling, need to be prepared. Makes enough masa to make 45-50 tamales.

3 tablespoons rendered chicken fat
1/2 medium white onion, finely sliced
1 pound (about 2 large) tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
11/2 cups shredded chicken
Sea salt to taste

Heat the chicken fat in a frying pan. Add the onion and fry gently without browning for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and continue frying over fairly high heat, stirring from time to time, until the mixture has reduced and thickened a little, about 8 minutes. Stir in the chicken and salt to taste and warm through for about 5 minutes to season the chicken. Set aside to cool. Makes enough filling for about 18 tamales.

6 ounces large, medium-hot whole dried red chiles, ancho or guajillo
Boiling water to cover chiles
2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano
3 cloves garlic, peeled
2 cups water, chicken stock or pork stock
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
11/2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
Shredded pork (recipe follows)

Heat a griddle or heavy skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Meanwhile, remove stems and seeds from chiles while rinsing under cold running water. Place them on the griddle and toast, 3 or 4 at a time, just until the aroma is released, 30 to 60 seconds. Be careful not to burn them. Place the chiles in a bowl and cover with the boiling water. Let soak until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain the chiles and discard the liquid.

Place chiles, oregano, 2 garlic cloves and the water or stock in blender and process to a smooth puree. Add more water or stock if it is too thick. Work puree through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl. Discard any solids that remain. Pour in a little more liquid to help rinse the sauce through the sieve.

In heavy, medium-size saucepan, heat lard or oil over medium-high heat until rippling. Add remaining garlic and brown in the hot fat, pressing down with the back of a cooking spoon to release flavor. Remove and discard garlic. Add flour, stirring constantly until golden. Add strained chile puree and salt to the pan and reduce the heat to low. It will splatter, so be careful. Cook over low heat, stirring often, until the raw taste is gone and the flavor of the chiles has mellowed, about 10 minutes.

Reserve 1/2 cup of chile to mix with masa dough. Mix shredded pork into remaining mixture. Makes enough filling for 45 to 50 tamales.

Shredded Pork
21/2 pounds boneless pork butt in 1 piece, trimmed of all but a thin layer of fat
1 whole head of garlic, unpeeled, cut crosswise in half
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
4 large bay leaves
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Place pork butt in large Dutch oven or medium-size stockpot. Add garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves and salt. Add enough cold water to cover by at least 3 inches. Bring just to a boil on high heat, quickly reduce heat to medium-low and let simmer, partly covered, skimming any froth from the top during the first 15 to 20 minutes of cooking. A piece this size should be well-cooked but not dried out in 11/2 to 2 hours. Remove from stock and let cool to room temperature. When cool, pull meat into fine shreds and mix with red chile.

Strain and degrease the stock. It will be easier to remove fat if the stock is thoroughly chilled. Stock can be kept, tightly covered, for 2 days in the refrigerator if degreased at once, up to a week if you leave the top layer of fat on it until ready to use. The stock also freezes well.

1 can (16 ounces) refried pinto beans
1/3 cup raisins
2 tablespoons brown sugar
11/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

In a medium-size bowl, stir together the beans, raisins and brown sugar. Add the cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and allspice and mix well.

Makes enough filling for about 30 tamales.

Creamed corn/cheese tamale filling
	1 cup corn kernels (from 1 large or 2 small ears of corn) 1/3 cup finely chopped onion 1 jalapeño chile, stemmed and finely chopped 11/2 cups grated semisoft cheese, such as Monterey Jack, farmer's cheese or queso asadero 2 tablespoons heavy cream Place all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to mix. Use right away or store in refrigerator no longer than overnight. Makes enough filling for about 12 tamales.